Malaysia: Feb 9th - Feb 24th

Hello all!!!

After a long long time not writing, I have started to write emails to friends and family. This one was so long, that I just have to post it in my blog as well!! I have had no access to my computer since Singapore - and there it shall stay until the end of March - so there are no photos with this blog!!

I have successfully arrived in Bangkok! I'm only here for one night before I go back to the airport to fly to Yangon.

Malaysia was amazing. Really, really amazing. But very hot! I don't know if you can really melt from the heat, but I really did. Bangkok is very hot too, I'm just glad that if there's not air-con, at least everywhere there are fans instead!

I started off in Melacca and stayed 3 days. The hostel was an old historic building, not so wide on the street, but very long in the back. I'm told this was due to taxing laws a few hundred years ago, but now they get taxed for all of it! I really liked Melacca, it's still my favourite. On my first night there, there was an unofficial supper club run by the hostel and 19 of us all went for Chinese along the road. It was good to meet everyone that way as not everyone was in the same dorm - or hostel. The one I was in - Jalan Jalan (literal meaning is street street) had a second sister hostel along the street, RM5 more expensive due to their air con. In my hostel we all had proper beds and a fan each for RM15, which is about 3 pounds a night. The next day I had roti canai with one of the girls, Lorna, for breakfast (a kind of Indian pancake with curry) and then we joined a free walking tour for the rest of the morning. Our guide was Chinese but had lived in the city for many years and was very knowledgeable. Only free tour to date!! For lunch we arrived back in time to join some of the other guests at a Sikh temple for lunch - for only RM2 and our washing up services afterwards. Bargain!

That evening, there was another supper club outing - this time a different 19 from both hostels cycled to a night market on the outskirts of town. My best find was a coconut (breaded) dumpling. The next day a few of us girls got up early for a dim sum breakfast and a cycle around town. We went to an old Malaysian village, cycled down the river bends, and through the old town to the island. It's completely deserted. Buildings are there but nobody lives there, it's a bit like a ghost town! They do have a floating Mosque though - our reason for going. It's just a Mosque on a pier, but they've got a good, quiet location!

The next day I went to KL with an Estonian girl I met, Rita, and two Germans, Michelle and Jannick. I booked somewhere online so really had to go there, whereas they found a nice air-con hostel on arrival for the same price! My hostel room had one fan which didn't reach the top bunk - my bed - so on the second night I had to put it on a table so we could all get some air!! We had one evening and one complete day in KL, so we all met up to explore. I saw some very pretty buildings around Little India and tried a few different foods - roti was still my favourite then though! And then it torrential rained on us so we got stuck by the stalls for a few hours! Our main attraction for us was the Batu Caves. A train ride (RM4 return... like 80p) to the Caves, and then a hike up 272 stairs into the caves. I managed to see my first monkey here! Very cute, but unfortunately drawn to the rubbish that so many people leave. It's disgusting the amount of rubbish in the temple/caves, it spoils it for sure!

My next stop was Cameron Highlands, and I went again with the two Germans I had met in Melacca. We all stayed in Tanah Rata, although again I had different accommodation. I preferred it though, and loved my hostel's reading room, where I met two Scots, who gave me tons of advice for Myanmar. Sure to come in handy! We took a morning tour of the tea plantation, strawberry farm, butterfly farm (with other animals too... rabbits, chipmunks, snakes...), a Buddhist temple and a small market.

In the afternoon, we did a small hike and the next day we did a larger one. Cameron Highlands - although beautiful - has a ton of rubbish everywhere. The lakes and rivers are full of it. Our hike was pretty idyllic though, away from the madding crowds and up quite a large hill! I think it's the steepest climb I've done since the Tongariro Crossing back in October! And even then there were at least steps instead of tree roots everywhere. I did like the view at the top though!

My next stop was Ipoh. I aimed to go there for the cave temples and spooky ruined castle, but never really made it. I got there, got into town, got on the right bus. But never found my accommodation. I only had one night there, I had planned to get there early and go and do these things I planned. Nobody said that Ipoh was a city, and that my booked accommodation would be almost an hour out of town - somewhere. So I made a split decision, I would look around town a bit, look at the historic railway station... and then go to Penang a day early. So I did.

I spent 4 nights in Penang, two different hostels. Chinese New Year was upon us and places are booked up quickly! I'd booked a hostel for three nights in Love Lane, but had to be in King Street - right bang in the middle of Little India - the first night. I didn't mind though. On every corner there are food stalls, and loud Indian music, and the smells are amazing. The people are friendly and at night, the lanterns are really pretty and a lot of the local buildings are lit up. It's just got a really good atmosphere.

The next morning I tried to book my train (for five days later) from Butterworth to Bangkok (23 hours). But it was sold out. The earliest I would be able to get on a train would be today (the 24th) and because of the length of the journey, I would get to Bangkok only about half an hour before my flight to Myanmar would leave. Not good. I found out the buses were also sold out, and due to traffic, would most likely take longer. So I bit the bullet (thanks Martin!) and booked a flight instead. A bit dear, but worth it, because here I am, right on time!!

After I booked my flight, I switched hostels and walked around for the day, looking at all the graffiti and iron works. Did you know that Jimmy Choo (the shoe designer) had his very first shop in Georgetown, on Leith street no less! I only went there for the Edinburgh connection! Leith street is also where Penang's cat cafe is. I took some pictures, but no, I didn't go up!

That night, I bumped into someone I knew from Melacca and we went to try to find Cendol. Cendol is Malaysia's traditional sweet treat. Shaved ice with coconut cream, kidney beans, rice flour noodles dyed green, syrup and sometimes with added sweetcorn and jelly. Sounds like a very strange combination I'm sure, but I like it. We never found it. There was a group of us, we stopped for dinner somewhere and then went on to a bar. A terrible bar where the drinks are free for ladies in between 5-10pm. We arrived at 8. I got a bit tipsy too quickly and don't remember getting back to the hostel. I did arrive fine though and woke up in my pjs so even though I don't remember it, I did take care of myself! Oops. I did go back the next two nights, but never drank as much and had more lemonade than gin. Non-alcoholic drinks you have to pay for, unfortunately!

The next day I bumped into some girls I met at the bar and we went and got our faces threaded. Our whole faces. Very, very sore!! My face looked a bit different after it, eyebrows less bushy - but I doubt I'll do it again! We hired bikes after and went on a little cycling tour of Georgetown. I had a lot of fun but we only did it for an hour or so as the heat got a bit too much!

My last day in Georgetown, I went to the National Park within a group of 10 from our hostel. The bus, due to it being a public holiday, took 2 hours (at least) each way, so instead of having a whole afternoon there, we were left with only 4-5 hours and the park gates would shut around 7pm. A plan was formed, and we got a boat to a little place called Monkey Beach, where we had lunch and swam for an hour before we went on to another beach around the corner - a turtle sanctuary! We saw two tiny baby turtles in a paddling pool, and that was it! The beach had "volatile jellyfish" just off the shore so we didn't go for a swim but we did learn how to sing a German song (with actions) from some of the group, before hiking back to the main gate. I led the way this time and, with no stops, we made it back in record time. Although we were all very hot and sweaty by the end of it!! We saw a few more monkeys and a really big lizard!

I didn't see a lot of the festivities for Chinese New Year, just a lot of crowds in the street and a few lion dances. I will put up pictures when I can, but when I finally get access to a not-so-public computer, it's going to take me a few hours to go through all my pictures!!

On Saturday (this one just past), I got up early for the 8.15 or 8.30 ferry to Langkawi. I had only had a few hours sleep, having been up playing pool with some friends and we hadn't realised the time! I got to the ferry only to be told every ferry was sold out. As it was a weekend day, these two ferries were supposed to be the only ones, but thankfully they put an extra one on at 2pm due to demand (and it being Chinese New Year). So I went back to my hostel and back to bed. Check out was at 12, so the owner let me go back to bed for a few hours - even though I'd already checked out an hour before.

I got to Langkawi in the evening, and found, much to my pleasure, three very lovely girls in my dorm whom I made fast friends with. Nicole and Amanda are from Canada and Vera is German. They hadn't had dinner yet, so after a small walk around the area we were staying in, we settled on roast lamb shank, shared between three of us, and huge quantities of salad and potatoes between all four. I have unfortunately been getting ill from every single meal I've had so far, no heartburn, just dodgy stomach. It's really crap and I hate being ill, but this meal was no different - even though it was more western than Asian.

The next day, us four girls and one other German guy, Thomas, went, by scooter, to hike up some waterfalls. The waterfall is almost dry, but there was enough for a few small natural infinity pools and a natural water slide. My first shot down the slide I lost my sunglasses. Not down the river, but into the small deep pool at the bottom. Nicole is a keen diver, so tried to get them back to no avail. Only when some newcomers came with diving goggles (what luck!) did we finally get them back. Turns out I was not the only one and we found an old pair of Ray Ban sunglasses in there too! The slide reminded me a lot of Soldier's Leap (in Glenfinnan) just not as steep.

My last day in Langkawi, yesterday, the girls had a different ferry to me so set off early - we were to meet again in Penang - but mine was not til 5pm so I was at a bit of a loss. So with an offer from one of the other girls in the hostel, I learnt how to ride a scooter! I rented one for the day and went off on my own little adventure. I got a ticket for the gondola/cable car, sat on the beach for an hour and went for a wee swim, and then went back to the cable car and up the hill. The view from the top is amazing. Simply beautiful. And with my new camera (a small splurge in Singapore due to the zoom on my other camera not working so well) the pictures have come out really well. I really liked having my own transport like that, I may try hiring a scooter again later in my trip!

I'm now to the end of my Malaysia story. So much to read, I apologise! I'm going to put this up as my blog as well, but feel free to reply as normal and I promise I'll try to reply properly this time!

I hope you are all well and are enjoying your summers/winters. I think if I return to Asia in the future, I might try to come back in a cooler time - if there is such a thing! Only three weeks in and the heat and I are still not friends. It's always a good excuse for an afternoon siesta though! The evening heat is much more preferable!!

Last one awake! I'm going to head to bed now! My bed for the night is in a pretty nice hostel - but my bed is harder than a futon! Wish me luck! I hope to hear from you all soon.

Kirsty xxxx

Taupo

Mark, Sarah and I left Napier on a sunny day with Sarah's car packed pretty tightly. I wish I had time to visit Napier one last time, but I don't think I've got it so I'll have to just remember all my memories!

Mark and Sarah on the boardwalk beside Napier Beach

We had fish and chips by the beach before we left and headed on the road towards Taupo listening to Abba. Taupo is pronounced either Touwpo, or Toe-paw, depending on which generation of Kiwi you talk to! I have been corrected so many times! Around an hour into our journey, and over several hills, the poor car started to have trouble getting up the mountains and decided to overheat. We waited by the roadside (with a lovely view I have to say) for around two hours and waited on the AA. The car miraculously started again and managed another few hills before going caput again. By this time it was dark and I'd called the hostel to explain our troubles. As long as we got there by 10, we'd be fine – although reception closes at 8. A passerby stopped and offered to help us out, just as the AA man got there with a tow truck. The problem, he only had room for two people. So I travelled ahead with the very-religious lady and Sarah and Mark went with the truck. I arrived only 10-15 minutes before them, and managed to get the key to our room. Welcome to Taupo!

The poor wee car

The view from our stop

The next day we had to sort out the car. Turns out, unfortunately, that the car needed a few more parts than Sarah could afford, and the mechanics couldn't say that with the new parts, the car would be fine afterwards. So we were then stuck in Taupo. We went to the library and researched our options, Sarah and Mark went online while I called around car rental companies. We found one for the rest of our trip for around $100 each, one that reminded me a lot of Mum's old car. It had plenty of space for us and all of our stuff. Thankfully we hadn't planned on leaving Taupo until the day after next, as all of our Taupo based activities involved being picked up straight from the hostel. We went to bed early that night as we had a long day ahead of us: The Tongariro Crossing.

My classy early morning pic with Mark

All smiles still - at the very beginning!

Showing the route ahead with Sarah and Mark

The shuttle bus was to pick us up early early morning. And by that I mean, still dark. 6am-ish. It was just after sunrise and around 8am when we started our trek of the Best One Day Hike in NZ. 19.4 kilometres across a national park full of rough terrain, volcanoes, volcanic lakes and in our case: lots of wind and lots of snow! I'm not a very fast walker. My dad hates it. Very guy I've ever dated seems to hate this. I can't help the fact that my legs are smaller than yours!! So I was behind for the first kilometre or so. Then I started to speed up. Mark with his long legs went in front and waited on Sarah and I a few times and once we got to the first hut – and the start of the Devil's Staircase, we lost him for about an hour. I could see him further up the stairs a few times but man, he walks fast! The steps were wide apart and getting really slippy with ice. I walked by myself most of the time, sure but steady. Sarah was behind me by a few corners, also taking her time. Neither of us wanted to slip and fall so early in the game. Well, we now know why it was called the Devil's staircase. Because it just took the wind out of you completely. Both mountains – including Mount Doom – were not to be attempted due to the snow and ice, and I was kind of thankful we didn't do the extra part.

Mark and I at Mount Doom (3km into the walk)

At the bottom of the Devil's staircase

Midway up the staircase of Hell

The view from the top back to the carpark

The South Crater was our next hurdle. From skiing for many years as a kid at Nevis Range – a lot of the time learning on ice or grass – you'd think I'd be okay with ice. Nope. The falls and memories of the falls make me afraid of it. The first third of the crater was okay, but then we got into thicker and slippier ice and I had to get Mark to help me. 

In the South Crater: Mark and Sarah

Me in the South Crater

Looking back towards the vastness of the South Crater

Going up towards the Red Crater was really steep, icy and also very windy. At times I felt like I was being blown away and this was not a great idea because the drop on the other side was cliff-like and looked deadly! The view at the top looking back – and also forward – was amazing. The Red Crater lives up to it's name and is extremely red. I felt like we were on Mars (think Total Recall, the original movie)! 

Going up towards the Red Crater

We could see the cloud coming in from behind us so we pushed on. At the top of the crater, going down towards the Emerald Lakes, we could see only one little part peaking out from the ice and snow around it. Every other lake was completely white. This is what it is supposed to look like in summer:

Compared to this... still beautiful though!:

The very top of the crater had steam coming out of the rocks. After the freezing cold wind on the last part, I wanted to stay there forever. But the crowd behind us were pushing us on. To get down to the lakes, you had to tackle the scree. So like a mountaineer's daughter, I tackled it like a pro and had fun sliding down. I even picked up a wee volcanic rock on the way down for keepsakes.

Our one glimpse of any blue in any lake!

Central Crater (last one!), looking back towards the Red Crater

Last look at the Emerald Lakes (and our lunch spot)

Moi by another frozen lake (Blue Lakes) looking the other way

We had lunch by the Emerald Lakes, but only stopped for about 45 minutes as we knew we were only half way through. The next crater was icy again, but had a lot of snow to help us along. We marched up to Blue Lake but couldn't stop due to the strong wind, but it didn't stop me taking heaps of pictures. So much so, I was left behind a little. And then we began our decent amongst the icy rocks and extreme amounts of snow. The path disappeared under the amount of snow so a lot of the time we were just feeling our way. Eventually we turned a corner to see the way home. Still another 8k to go at least! That part was perhaps one of our slowest. Mark taking the lead, Sarah in second, and me dragging behind a little. So many pictures! Some of the path you had to go down on your bum and when we got closer to the hut, I followed some other walkers example by, instead of walking down one zig-zag, I sledged with Sarah's spare jacket instead. Thanks Sarah!

We got to the last hut – and the first toilets since before the Devil's staircase – in good time. We had a snack there and I saw my first, live, possum. They don't usually come out in the daytime so it was fairly unusual, but I suspect it was after the crumbs of the many climbers heading downhill. The last of the track, all 6.4km of it, was alright – just a lot of steps going down – and then a lot going back up. We saw a lot of steam vents coming out of the hill and before we descended into the last 4k of forest walk, we entered an active volcanic hazard zone – no stopping!

Downhill at last - and lots more snow: with Mark and Sarah (ahead)

Volcanic Vents

Sledging!

Last hut ahead!

Possum!!

But we made it! And got to the car park 25 minutes before the last bus went back to Taupo. Around 8-9 hours it took us, including stops, but I can't remember our exact time. But closer to 9. And I was exhausted! I even fell asleep on the bus back. But we did it! Walk complete!! Back in Taupo we relaxed by showering, changing and heading to Burger Fuel for dinner – I think we deserved it!

Mark before we went downhill into the trees (last leg)

Tongariro Crossing Map (Ketetahi Carpark was our finishing point)

Next day we were to leave Taupo for Rotorua but had some exciting plans first! The night before whilst checking emails, we found a deal for tickets at the Wairakei Terraces, some steamy hot, volcanic terraces not far out of town. There was also some Maori carvings there that we were keen to see. First things first though! On our return to Taupo after our walk, Mark and I had booked something a bit terrifying: a skydive! On arrival to the skydiving company, however, Mark decided to upgrade his jump to 15,000 feet. I wasn't prepared to do this, so stuck with 12,000 feet. This also meant I would be first out of the plane. This both scared me and calmed me.

1) I am terrified of heights. I'm good with views, just not ladders or looking down from any height taller than myself.

2) If I went first, I wouldn't have to watch anyone else having to jump and therefore wouldn't have an option to back out. It was a tandem jump so I wouldn't be completely by myself and someone else would be operating the parachute. My guide, Tim, made me at ease instantly. He was friendly, he asked questions and had even been to Fort William for a bit for kayaking.

Getting harnessed up

Mark and I raring to go!

Preparing for lift off!

Sarah was down on the ground taking pictures for us. Unfortunately, due to the car problems, she couldn't skydive with us this trip, but maybe another time! The plane was tiny and noisy. I'd climbed into my harness and been attached to my partner already. Since I was going out first, being the only person at 12,000 feet, I had to get on last. My heart was thumping as we got on and the door closed from above. It was like a rolled door, easier to open I guess. I had to sit on my partner's lap to get completely attached to him and I was getting more and more scared. I tried to calm myself by looking out the window and asking questions about the view. Soon enough though, it was my turn. I had to slide to the end of the bench and sit down on the floor. I had to help open the door and sit right on the edge of the plane, with my feet hanging out the plane. I felt the wind trying to take my shoes off. I remember two things before the jump. Looking back into the plane, not being able to see Mark, but seeing everyone putting on oxygen masks for the flight higher into the sky and secondly, being told to look in the camera for my exit picture. And then Tim pushed us forward and out, and we were off.

My Exit Photo

For the first 12 seconds or so, we are in freefall. There is nothing helping me breathe, so I have my hand over my mouth and nose as the air rushes past us. We are tumbling in the air and I don't remember seeing anything from this moment in time. Then I'm told to lift up my legs as far as I can. I hurt my leg the day before walking – right around the thigh area, so when the parachute opens up, straining on my thigh, I am in pain. But wow, that view is amazing. We are up so very high and I can see for miles and miles! My tandem partner picks out some views for me and asks if I want to spin in the air and go faster. But this speed was enough for me, just gliding in big circles. It really is a beautiful view. These 3 are not my pictures, but given to me on my exit photo CD.

A view out the plane

A view of Taupo

The landing site

Soon we are to land, and for us, this means landing on our bums. Others might land running but I'd rather not hurt my leg more so I agree with the method and put my legs up in the air once more to land. And down I go with a bump. I try to get up but am told to lean back and look up into the sky. I can see the first jumpers come out the plane at 15,000 feet. I got up soon after – once I had gotten my breath back – and go and find Sarah. We both stand there as the rest of the people in the plane come down – and eventually so does Mark. What an amazing experience! Once in a lifetime for sure!!

That's me up there!!

Me again!

Coming in to land!

Mark coming in to land!

Mark and I after

Mark and I with our plane

On the next instalment: Rotorua, Mt Mangonui and McLaren Falls

Whanganui, New Plymouth and Returning to Jail

I'm currently sitting in my room in Cable Bay watching the palm tree outside my window sway and the waves crashing against the beach. I realise I haven't done my blog in a long time and I think it's because I got bored of it. I had writer's block for a time too, which is strange because here I am writing about my own life. I also wrote way too much and I think people must've got lost half way down. So really, doing a three month at a time blog will be good because I'll have forgotten some of the day-to-day activities and remember only what I want to. There are still a ton of pictures in here though! Happy reading! Kirsty x

Whanganui/Wanganui (pronounced Fonganooee or Wonganooee)

Pukeko!! I recorded it, played it back to myself, and they started replying to the squaks on the audio

Pencil art in Wanganui

Seeing Mt Ruapehu (approx 50 miles away) from the Wanganui river

This fun fella is on the wall as you go into the elevator tunnel

I went to Whanganui after Wellington because I couldn't find a paid job anywhere and thought working for accommodation would be better for a while. Save me some money anyway! I volunteered at the Tamara Lodge backpackers just off the river there for three and a half weeks. There's not a lot happening in that town. Sure it's good to explore for a day or two, but I got bored easily. I only had to work two hours a day. During the week it was minding the reception, working in the garden, folding laundry and maybe tidying the kitchen at the end of the day. At the weekend, I was doing the housekeeping. I never knew what I was doing there, really. Rory, the owner, wasn't very forthcoming about my duties and would only tell me that day what I'd be doing. In Napier, we'd at least worked by a timetable and that was better for me.

Tamara Lodge Backpackers, Whanganui

After two weeks of being there, I'd been up the hill twice – where there is an elevator in the middle of the hill – and up the tower with it's 250+ steps twice. I'd walked out to the beach with it's black sand. I'd made a cake and fed it to everyone in the hostel. I'd done a couple of 1000 piece jigsaws and drunk two bottles of cider by myself. It rained a lot and I explored the town itself on good days. I went to the park and found a PUKEKO. Probably the cutest bird ever. I also watched A LOT of TV that I'd copied onto my hard-drive from friends.

The hill elevator, from the top

The tower where you can get the best view of Whanganui! 

The view from the top of the hill (with the elevator IN THE HILL)

The town's art museum (closed)

I don't know why it took me so long to get in touch but I suppose it was nerves. My great-aunt Lorna's best friend from Singapore, Lyn, lived just outside Whanganui on a little farm. My second cousin (I think?) on my dad's side, Sonia, gave me her details over facebook. I'm not very close with my Dad's family apart from him and my granny. I used to receive birthday and Christmas cheques from Lorna and her husband Ron when I was a child, but didn't see them often. We lived in the highlands of Scotland, and from what I remember, they had a house near Box in very southern England. Miles and miles and miles away. Lyn and I met up on a weekend and she picked me up in her wee battered beetle. We had a little explore of the art galleries in town and had a coffee in the i-site cafe while we waited for her appointment with the garage. After the garage, we headed out to hers along the New Plymouth road. She has a lovely house – a huge bungalow – and a gorgeous garden with fruit trees and it's own tiny lake with ducks. Lyn and I talked about everything. My Dad had met her once long ago when he was about my age. He'd been to visit Lorna in Singapore with my granny (her sister). He said she was a “cracker” and she was. I knew as soon as I met her she was brilliant. She was very colourful, wearing pink and grey and cool thigh high boots. 71 years of age, and more fashionable than me (that's not hard). She was very open and we spoke about family, about me, about my mum, about plans, about her family, about New Zealand, all over roast lamb made in a tagine. After dinner, we played scrabble over wine and it was good to finally have someone to play with!

A picture of Lyn's awesome car!

Lyn's house

Lyn and I playing scrabble in her living room

I was sad when the night was over. She drove me back to the hostel, I must've got in around midnight! I saw her once more, this time with her grandchildren, with whom we fed the ducks in her pond and played trains. We had another lovely dinner and her son joined us for a bit. We had a few more games of scrabble and a bit more wine before I went back to the hostel. Lyn has offered, if I come back, to drive me up the Whanganui river and go to the Bridge of Nowhere. I would really, really love to see her again and will see if I have enough time and money to re-visit her in January.

New Plymouth

After Whanganui, I headed to New Plymouth on the coast for two nights. I had wanted to take a walk up near Mt Taranaki (as featured in the Last Samurai and Mt Fiji) but it was too snowy and I would have needed a guide and some intermediate climbers equipment to go up at all. Instead, we had some nice sunny days! The night I arrived, I made friends in the hostel with Sanja, Max and another German guy, Baldur. We played drinking games and then went out to the pub with the South African guy from reception to play pool and then headed onto a Maori bar for more drinks. The next day we were a little rough, so we sunbathed and played Jenga in the garden in the sunshine and then in the afternoon, Sanja, Baldur and I went to a reserve beach along the 'surfer's highway'. Max unfortunately had to go onto the next place, so it was just us three. It was a gorgeous day but the water was too cold to swim in, so we paddled and our feet went numb! There were some beautiful views from the beach to the islands and also up to Mt Taranaki. In the evening, the three of us went out again for more pool. As it was a Friday there was dancing music in the pub but nobody on the dance floor. Sanja and I tried for a bit, but being the only ones on the dancefloor in a semi-quiet pub meant that people stared at us and it was unnerving. We headed back to the hostel and eventually to bed. 

Sanja, Max and Baldur in New Plymouth

Mt Taranaki from the beach

Moi

The next day I was leaving, but my bus wasn't til 1.30pm so I went for a walk around the Botanics and to the racecourse in the morning. I didn't mean to be at the racecourse but the Botanic walks weren't very well signed and I ended up in the wrong place! It had rained in the morning so I had my thick boots on but it turned out to be a roasting day. Unfortunately the bus ended up being an hour and a half late! Some sort of mechanical problem, we were never told! But once the driver got there, he announced he was going to have a half an hour break! So we were even later on leaving. I was pretty worried, as my connecting bus was in Palmerston North and I was afraid it'd leave without me. The bus coming up from Wellington was also thankfully late, and our bus made up time by having no toilet stop and by speeding. I had to run into a bar in “Palmy” and then my connecting bus met me outside the entrance! We arrived into Napier about an hour and a quarter late and thankfully Sarah was able to pick me up.

Napier - Returning to Jail

That's right – Napier. Sarah had mentioned that she, Nalendra and Ireka were going to an All Blacks game in Napier at the beginning of September back when I had only just got to Whanganui. I jumped at the chance to go too, even though the tickets were almost $70 for the cheap stands. All Blacks are New Zealand's national rugby team for anyone not in the know! Once I had said yes to going to the game with the other three, I had decided to come back just for the weekend. My old boss at the prison, Marion, said she was fine with this. I'd pitch in to cover my accommodation. Then things changed, and with no plan for the future, this stay became a week and then five weeks. Sarah, Mark and I had planned to do the Tongariro Crossing in the second week of October and I said I'd stay until then. Our plans then expanded to include everything Mark had missed out on his trip so far, and since he was leaving mid-October, he wanted to cram it all in and Sarah and I were to go along for the ride.

So I came back to the prison. I worked there as the cleaner, 6 days a week, 3 hours a day for 5 weeks. I told Tony I was back, just in case I could pick up any shifts at the restaurant, but he never needed anyone. I was also dog walker extraordinaire for Marion's dog Finn and Bonnie's Yoda. I took them on a walk in the afternoons most days, up Bluff Hill or along the beach. Got me fitter anyway! I didn't just come back for the game. I missed Napier and the prison and everyone in it. I had been texting a certain male friend for a while by that point, and I guess – as he knows now too – that I also came back for him. And something did happen, but I'm not going to go into it! Let's just say we were more than friends and when I return to the UK, we'll hopefully meet up again. He knows who he is, and some of you may know too!

The weekend of the All Blacks game was a lot of fun. My friend Sian, who I'd met at Mt Cook (remember her?) came to visit me. She also had a ticket for the game, but in a different section. The Wednesday before, the team had arrived in Napier and had done a few appearances for pictures and autographs at the Conch shell, at the theatre and also in Farmers, one of the department stores. I met a few players, I got three of them to sign my special NZ playing cards, though I can't tell you who exactly I met. I can just show you the pictures! Mark was in Auckland for a Mythbuster's (TV prog) event so he missed the action this time around!

Sian arrived on the Saturday afternoon. It was so good to see her, and it was good to catch up. Caila, a friend of my first prison friend Sarah, who I'd met in Wellington, was also living at the prison. Although she didn't come to the game, we all hung out that weekend. Sian had gotten us press-on tattoos for the game and we'd gotten banners at one of the appearances in the last few days. We had even bought $2 ponchos at Pac n Save. It torrential rained most of the night. We were dressed warmly, Sarah, Sian and I had all drunk at least one bottle of cider each (1.25L only!) before the game, waterproofs on... Nalendra and Ireka drove us down so we didn't have to walk too far to the stadium. Sian and I went to collect her ticket while the others went inside to have a look around. The players were meant to be doing another appearance before the game, and although they walked right by Sarah, Ireka and Nalendra, but didn't stop to chat this time.

Our seats weren't that bad. They were on an extra, un-covered stand quite high up and had a good view of the whole pitch. I was so glad I brought my glasses so that I could see (I'm short sighted) but had to wipe them quite a few times because of the rain. Now, I'm being honest here... I don't really know the rules for rugby. Sarah explained a few of the actions to me, which I got, but for some of it I got lost on the scoring. And, I fell asleep. Pouring rain, shouting all around, wet seat, live action rugby... and I fell asleep for about 20 minutes. No idea how! But when I woke up, it was in time for half time. I'd seen the beginning and the Haka, but not much more of that. During the break, I found Sian and we found food and the bathrooms, before we separated again for the second half. I didn't fall asleep this time! There was more action: more injuries, lots more running, less complicated moves and a female streaker! She ran holding her boobs and was taken down by six members of security. The game was all centred on another part of the pitch at that time, so I'm afraid the players missed most of it!

Sarah, Sian and me taking All Blacks selfies pre-game

Our view from our seats

A selfie with Sarah seconds before the streaker came on

Post-game selfie!

It was a good game though, Argentina lost to New Zealand but they fought hard! We were going to go out after the game with Caila, but didn't get back to the prison until quite late, so we all stayed up talking about Asia. Sarah had already visited quite a bit of South-East Asia, so she gave Sian, Caila and I – all of us going to Asia in the next year or so – advice about what to bring and what to watch out for. Sarah should really write this all down and publish it! Tips for travellers that Lonely Planet doesn't always mention! Like how it's best to get medical attention for Malaria in an Asian country as they know more about treating it than the Western world and the hospitals only generally cost $1 a day. Like I said – interesting! Sian left the next day to see the eastern cape of the north island before heading up to Auckland – and away to Asia. We took Sian to Meanee road, the chocolate shop and our fave winery: The Mission, before she left for her trip around the East Cape. She invited me to go with her, but I felt I couldn't leave people in the lurch whilst I went exploring. Shame.

 
Wine Times in The Mission with Sian, Sarah and Caila

Mark came back to the prison and life returned to normal. Hanging out in the tv room, on our laptops, watching the occasional film from the video store. We went to the cinema a few times. On my first day back I went to see Guardians of the Galaxy with Mark. He'd seen it before just after his trip to Wellington with Sarah to see me back in July but was willing to see it again. I wore my heels for the first time since I broke my toe and got blisters. Mark was late because he was helping a visitor find their way in the prison, but we got there on time! I loved the raccoon!

We went to the cinema another few times. I miss cheap cinema. Cable Bay has no cinema and the nearest one is Kaitaia, half an hour's drive away. I don't drive. Monday's in the prison were movie and pizza nights. I had some girl time at the swimming pool, just playing in the water. Jacuzzis are actually far too hot for me after only 5 minutes! We went to the quiz a couple of times in the Irish pub and I managed to answer seven questions correctly in one night! Woo! I suck at quizzes, I just go along for the fun and to see friends. That's why, when I return home, I'll be going back to the quiz on Tuesday's in the Greenmantle in Edinburgh to join Team Danger, if they'll have me back!

I met up with Jill again, my English friend from when I worked in Kathmandu. She was house sitting up the road from the prison and I went round there for dinner to celebrate her new visa status - she was getting to stay! Her partner is from New Zealand so it was smiles all round. We also met up once more to climb Te Mata peak together. Such amazing views from there and well worth it to see the ancient sea shells hundreds of feet above sea level still in the rock and the lovely forest walks.

Looking down Te Mata peak back towards Havelock North, Hastings and Napier

See... shells!!!

The wiggly path down to the redwood forest

It was fun to go back to Napier and see everyone – and also make new friends. For the last two weeks or so in the prison, we had a French girl, Emmeline, come in and do French translations for the audio guide business. We all became friends rather quickly and it was good to have a wee girls group again, if only for a short period of time. Sarah, Caila, Emmeline and I went to a winery for Caila's last day at Napier prison. Sarah and I had seen a menu at the farmer's market in Hastings the previous Sunday (if you're going to go to a market in Hawkes' Bay, go to that one!) and you could get two courses out of three for $25. I hope I'm remembering this correctly. It was supposed to be winter still yet the temperature rose to a balmy 24C and we got seats outside. We all had to borrow Sarah's suncream though! The food was amazing and we all had a lovely, relaxing time. We went for ice cream at Rush Munro's in Hastings after - the World Famous in New Zealand ice cream. I had a sorbet banana split. Awesomely good! I was sad to see Caila leave. She's a lovely person and I really hopes she comes to visit me in Scotland sometime. I will most definitely visit her in Canada one day – when she finally goes home (She's in Oz just now).

We played hide and seek in the dark a few times, although there was a lot of cheating going on like moving around! Not fair! No torch is around so you have to depend on your eyesight in the pitch black. On Caila's last night we played again, and she hid on top of a wall! I was seeker and thought I'd be quieter and went in my socks for a bit, only one of the cell doors I'd opened to look for someone had slowly creaked open by the time I went back and I walked straight into it! With my bad toe. Seriously thought I'd damaged it again, but after a few days it went back to normal, phew!

Caila and Sarah at Rush Munro's

Emmeline and I gorging on our icy treats

Caila's best hide and seek spot. I should also point out that this is above the graveyard... in the dark... spooky!

Before I knew it, time had crept up on us and it was time to leave again! This time I was taking Sarah and Mark with me - Mark's original planned trip after all - although Sarah was going to come back and help Tony out in the pizzeria until it closed at the end of October. We had a potluck dinner – though only the girls ended up cooking as the guys were helping out with a new hole in the floor in the women's wing (a spoilt kid decided to jump up and down several times on a creaky floor and didn't expect that to happen). The meal was delicious though, and we were all very full by the end! We also went to the RSA for one last meal with Marion and her family. We had several photos on the stairs with Caila before she left and I've picked out what I think is the best one to finish off this post. I really loved Napier and one day, maybe I'll go back. Sarah seems intent on staying longer there and with the introduction of warmer, longer showers, who wouldn't? Haha.

From L-R: Mark, Sarah, Nalendra, Ireka (back), Caila (front), Emmeline and me