The Solo Adventures of Kirsty Powell: Taupo

Mark, Sarah and I left Napier on a sunny day with Sarah's car packed pretty tightly. I wish I had time to visit Napier one last time, but I don't think I've got it so I'll have to just remember all my memories!

Mark and Sarah on the boardwalk beside Napier Beach

We had fish and chips by the beach before we left and headed on the road towards Taupo listening to Abba. Taupo is pronounced either Touwpo, or Toe-paw, depending on which generation of Kiwi you talk to! I have been corrected so many times! Around an hour into our journey, and over several hills, the poor car started to have trouble getting up the mountains and decided to overheat. We waited by the roadside (with a lovely view I have to say) for around two hours and waited on the AA. The car miraculously started again and managed another few hills before going caput again. By this time it was dark and I'd called the hostel to explain our troubles. As long as we got there by 10, we'd be fine – although reception closes at 8. A passerby stopped and offered to help us out, just as the AA man got there with a tow truck. The problem, he only had room for two people. So I travelled ahead with the very-religious lady and Sarah and Mark went with the truck. I arrived only 10-15 minutes before them, and managed to get the key to our room. Welcome to Taupo!

The poor wee car

The view from our stop

The next day we had to sort out the car. Turns out, unfortunately, that the car needed a few more parts than Sarah could afford, and the mechanics couldn't say that with the new parts, the car would be fine afterwards. So we were then stuck in Taupo. We went to the library and researched our options, Sarah and Mark went online while I called around car rental companies. We found one for the rest of our trip for around $100 each, one that reminded me a lot of Mum's old car. It had plenty of space for us and all of our stuff. Thankfully we hadn't planned on leaving Taupo until the day after next, as all of our Taupo based activities involved being picked up straight from the hostel. We went to bed early that night as we had a long day ahead of us: The Tongariro Crossing.

My classy early morning pic with Mark

All smiles still - at the very beginning!

Showing the route ahead with Sarah and Mark

The shuttle bus was to pick us up early early morning. And by that I mean, still dark. 6am-ish. It was just after sunrise and around 8am when we started our trek of the Best One Day Hike in NZ. 19.4 kilometres across a national park full of rough terrain, volcanoes, volcanic lakes and in our case: lots of wind and lots of snow! I'm not a very fast walker. My dad hates it. Very guy I've ever dated seems to hate this. I can't help the fact that my legs are smaller than yours!! So I was behind for the first kilometre or so. Then I started to speed up. Mark with his long legs went in front and waited on Sarah and I a few times and once we got to the first hut – and the start of the Devil's Staircase, we lost him for about an hour. I could see him further up the stairs a few times but man, he walks fast! The steps were wide apart and getting really slippy with ice. I walked by myself most of the time, sure but steady. Sarah was behind me by a few corners, also taking her time. Neither of us wanted to slip and fall so early in the game. Well, we now know why it was called the Devil's staircase. Because it just took the wind out of you completely. Both mountains – including Mount Doom – were not to be attempted due to the snow and ice, and I was kind of thankful we didn't do the extra part.

Mark and I at Mount Doom (3km into the walk)

At the bottom of the Devil's staircase

Midway up the staircase of Hell

The view from the top back to the carpark

The South Crater was our next hurdle. From skiing for many years as a kid at Nevis Range – a lot of the time learning on ice or grass – you'd think I'd be okay with ice. Nope. The falls and memories of the falls make me afraid of it. The first third of the crater was okay, but then we got into thicker and slippier ice and I had to get Mark to help me.

In the South Crater: Mark and Sarah

Me in the South Crater

Looking back towards the vastness of the South Crater

Going up towards the Red Crater was really steep, icy and also very windy. At times I felt like I was being blown away and this was not a great idea because the drop on the other side was cliff-like and looked deadly! The view at the top looking back – and also forward – was amazing. The Red Crater lives up to it's name and is extremely red. I felt like we were on Mars (think Total Recall, the original movie)!

Going up towards the Red Crater

We could see the cloud coming in from behind us so we pushed on. At the top of the crater, going down towards the Emerald Lakes, we could see only one little part peaking out from the ice and snow around it. Every other lake was completely white. This is what it is supposed to look like in summer:

Compared to this... still beautiful though!:

The very top of the crater had steam coming out of the rocks. After the freezing cold wind on the last part, I wanted to stay there forever. But the crowd behind us were pushing us on. To get down to the lakes, you had to tackle the scree. So like a mountaineer's daughter, I tackled it like a pro and had fun sliding down. I even picked up a wee volcanic rock on the way down for keepsakes.

Our one glimpse of any blue in any lake!

Central Crater (last one!), looking back towards the Red Crater

Last look at the Emerald Lakes (and our lunch spot)

Moi by another frozen lake (Blue Lakes) looking the other way

We had lunch by the Emerald Lakes, but only stopped for about 45 minutes as we knew we were only half way through. The next crater was icy again, but had a lot of snow to help us along. We marched up to Blue Lake but couldn't stop due to the strong wind, but it didn't stop me taking heaps of pictures. So much so, I was left behind a little. And then we began our decent amongst the icy rocks and extreme amounts of snow. The path disappeared under the amount of snow so a lot of the time we were just feeling our way. Eventually we turned a corner to see the way home. Still another 8k to go at least! That part was perhaps one of our slowest. Mark taking the lead, Sarah in second, and me dragging behind a little. So many pictures! Some of the path you had to go down on your bum and when we got closer to the hut, I followed some other walkers example by, instead of walking down one zig-zag, I sledged with Sarah's spare jacket instead. Thanks Sarah!

We got to the last hut – and the first toilets since before the Devil's staircase – in good time. We had a snack there and I saw my first, live, possum. They don't usually come out in the daytime so it was fairly unusual, but I suspect it was after the crumbs of the many climbers heading downhill. The last of the track, all 6.4km of it, was alright – just a lot of steps going down – and then a lot going back up. We saw a lot of steam vents coming out of the hill and before we descended into the last 4k of forest walk, we entered an active volcanic hazard zone – no stopping!

Downhill at last - and lots more snow: with Mark and Sarah (ahead)

Volcanic Vents

Sledging!

Last hut ahead!

Possum!!

But we made it! And got to the car park 25 minutes before the last bus went back to Taupo. Around 8-9 hours it took us, including stops, but I can't remember our exact time. But closer to 9. And I was exhausted! I even fell asleep on the bus back. But we did it! Walk complete!! Back in Taupo we relaxed by showering, changing and heading to Burger Fuel for dinner – I think we deserved it!

Mark before we went downhill into the trees (last leg)

Tongariro Crossing Map (Ketetahi Carpark was our finishing point)

Next day we were to leave Taupo for Rotorua but had some exciting plans first! The night before whilst checking emails, we found a deal for tickets at the Wairakei Terraces, some steamy hot, volcanic terraces not far out of town. There was also some Maori carvings there that we were keen to see. First things first though! On our return to Taupo after our walk, Mark and I had booked something a bit terrifying: a skydive! On arrival to the skydiving company, however, Mark decided to upgrade his jump to 15,000 feet. I wasn't prepared to do this, so stuck with 12,000 feet. This also meant I would be first out of the plane. This both scared me and calmed me.

1) I am terrified of heights. I'm good with views, just not ladders or looking down from any height taller than myself.

2) If I went first, I wouldn't have to watch anyone else having to jump and therefore wouldn't have an option to back out. It was a tandem jump so I wouldn't be completely by myself and someone else would be operating the parachute. My guide, Tim, made me at ease instantly. He was friendly, he asked questions and had even been to Fort William for a bit for kayaking.

Getting harnessed up

Mark and I raring to go!

Preparing for lift off!

Sarah was down on the ground taking pictures for us. Unfortunately, due to the car problems, she couldn't skydive with us this trip, but maybe another time! The plane was tiny and noisy. I'd climbed into my harness and been attached to my partner already. Since I was going out first, being the only person at 12,000 feet, I had to get on last. My heart was thumping as we got on and the door closed from above. It was like a rolled door, easier to open I guess. I had to sit on my partner's lap to get completely attached to him and I was getting more and more scared. I tried to calm myself by looking out the window and asking questions about the view. Soon enough though, it was my turn. I had to slide to the end of the bench and sit down on the floor. I had to help open the door and sit right on the edge of the plane, with my feet hanging out the plane. I felt the wind trying to take my shoes off. I remember two things before the jump. Looking back into the plane, not being able to see Mark, but seeing everyone putting on oxygen masks for the flight higher into the sky and secondly, being told to look in the camera for my exit picture. And then Tim pushed us forward and out, and we were off.

My Exit Photo

For the first 12 seconds or so, we are in freefall. There is nothing helping me breathe, so I have my hand over my mouth and nose as the air rushes past us. We are tumbling in the air and I don't remember seeing anything from this moment in time. Then I'm told to lift up my legs as far as I can. I hurt my leg the day before walking – right around the thigh area, so when the parachute opens up, straining on my thigh, I am in pain. But wow, that view is amazing. We are up so very high and I can see for miles and miles! My tandem partner picks out some views for me and asks if I want to spin in the air and go faster. But this speed was enough for me, just gliding in big circles. It really is a beautiful view. These 3 are not my pictures, but given to me on my exit photo CD.

A view out the plane

A view of Taupo

The landing site

Soon we are to land, and for us, this means landing on our bums. Others might land running but I'd rather not hurt my leg more so I agree with the method and put my legs up in the air once more to land. And down I go with a bump. I try to get up but am told to lean back and look up into the sky. I can see the first jumpers come out the plane at 15,000 feet. I got up soon after – once I had gotten my breath back – and go and find Sarah. We both stand there as the rest of the people in the plane come down – and eventually so does Mark. What an amazing experience! Once in a lifetime for sure!!