Thursday, 11 December 2014

Taupo

Mark, Sarah and I left Napier on a sunny day with Sarah's car packed pretty tightly. I wish I had time to visit Napier one last time, but I don't think I've got it so I'll have to just remember all my memories!

Mark and Sarah on the boardwalk beside Napier Beach

We had fish and chips by the beach before we left and headed on the road towards Taupo listening to Abba. Taupo is pronounced either Touwpo, or Toe-paw, depending on which generation of Kiwi you talk to! I have been corrected so many times! Around an hour into our journey, and over several hills, the poor car started to have trouble getting up the mountains and decided to overheat. We waited by the roadside (with a lovely view I have to say) for around two hours and waited on the AA. The car miraculously started again and managed another few hills before going caput again. By this time it was dark and I'd called the hostel to explain our troubles. As long as we got there by 10, we'd be fine – although reception closes at 8. A passerby stopped and offered to help us out, just as the AA man got there with a tow truck. The problem, he only had room for two people. So I travelled ahead with the very-religious lady and Sarah and Mark went with the truck. I arrived only 10-15 minutes before them, and managed to get the key to our room. Welcome to Taupo!

The poor wee car
The view from our stop

The next day we had to sort out the car. Turns out, unfortunately, that the car needed a few more parts than Sarah could afford, and the mechanics couldn't say that with the new parts, the car would be fine afterwards. So we were then stuck in Taupo. We went to the library and researched our options, Sarah and Mark went online while I called around car rental companies. We found one for the rest of our trip for around $100 each, one that reminded me a lot of Mum's old car. It had plenty of space for us and all of our stuff. Thankfully we hadn't planned on leaving Taupo until the day after next, as all of our Taupo based activities involved being picked up straight from the hostel. We went to bed early that night as we had a long day ahead of us: The Tongariro Crossing.

My classy early morning pic with Mark

All smiles still - at the very beginning!


Showing the route ahead with Sarah and Mark

The shuttle bus was to pick us up early early morning. And by that I mean, still dark. 6am-ish. It was just after sunrise and around 8am when we started our trek of the Best One Day Hike in NZ. 19.4 kilometres across a national park full of rough terrain, volcanoes, volcanic lakes and in our case: lots of wind and lots of snow! I'm not a very fast walker. My dad hates it. Very guy I've ever dated seems to hate this. I can't help the fact that my legs are smaller than yours!! So I was behind for the first kilometre or so. Then I started to speed up. Mark with his long legs went in front and waited on Sarah and I a few times and once we got to the first hut – and the start of the Devil's Staircase, we lost him for about an hour. I could see him further up the stairs a few times but man, he walks fast! The steps were wide apart and getting really slippy with ice. I walked by myself most of the time, sure but steady. Sarah was behind me by a few corners, also taking her time. Neither of us wanted to slip and fall so early in the game. Well, we now know why it was called the Devil's staircase. Because it just took the wind out of you completely. Both mountains – including Mount Doom – were not to be attempted due to the snow and ice, and I was kind of thankful we didn't do the extra part.

Mark and I at Mount Doom (3km into the walk)

At the bottom of the Devil's staircase

Midway up the staircase of Hell

The view from the top back to the carpark

The South Crater was our next hurdle. From skiing for many years as a kid at Nevis Range – a lot of the time learning on ice or grass – you'd think I'd be okay with ice. Nope. The falls and memories of the falls make me afraid of it. The first third of the crater was okay, but then we got into thicker and slippier ice and I had to get Mark to help me. 

In the South Crater: Mark and Sarah

Me in the South Crater

Looking back towards the vastness of the South Crater
Going up towards the Red Crater was really steep, icy and also very windy. At times I felt like I was being blown away and this was not a great idea because the drop on the other side was cliff-like and looked deadly! The view at the top looking back – and also forward – was amazing. The Red Crater lives up to it's name and is extremely red. I felt like we were on Mars (think Total Recall, the original movie)! 

Going up towards the Red Crater



We could see the cloud coming in from behind us so we pushed on. At the top of the crater, going down towards the Emerald Lakes, we could see only one little part peaking out from the ice and snow around it. Every other lake was completely white. This is what it is supposed to look like in summer:



Compared to this... still beautiful though!:



The very top of the crater had steam coming out of the rocks. After the freezing cold wind on the last part, I wanted to stay there forever. But the crowd behind us were pushing us on. To get down to the lakes, you had to tackle the scree. So like a mountaineer's daughter, I tackled it like a pro and had fun sliding down. I even picked up a wee volcanic rock on the way down for keepsakes.

Our one glimpse of any blue in any lake!

Central Crater (last one!), looking back towards the Red Crater

Last look at the Emerald Lakes (and our lunch spot)

Moi by another frozen lake (Blue Lakes) looking the other way

We had lunch by the Emerald Lakes, but only stopped for about 45 minutes as we knew we were only half way through. The next crater was icy again, but had a lot of snow to help us along. We marched up to Blue Lake but couldn't stop due to the strong wind, but it didn't stop me taking heaps of pictures. So much so, I was left behind a little. And then we began our decent amongst the icy rocks and extreme amounts of snow. The path disappeared under the amount of snow so a lot of the time we were just feeling our way. Eventually we turned a corner to see the way home. Still another 8k to go at least! That part was perhaps one of our slowest. Mark taking the lead, Sarah in second, and me dragging behind a little. So many pictures! Some of the path you had to go down on your bum and when we got closer to the hut, I followed some other walkers example by, instead of walking down one zig-zag, I sledged with Sarah's spare jacket instead. Thanks Sarah!

We got to the last hut – and the first toilets since before the Devil's staircase – in good time. We had a snack there and I saw my first, live, possum. They don't usually come out in the daytime so it was fairly unusual, but I suspect it was after the crumbs of the many climbers heading downhill. The last of the track, all 6.4km of it, was alright – just a lot of steps going down – and then a lot going back up. We saw a lot of steam vents coming out of the hill and before we descended into the last 4k of forest walk, we entered an active volcanic hazard zone – no stopping!

Downhill at last - and lots more snow: with Mark and Sarah (ahead)

Volcanic Vents

Sledging!

Last hut ahead!

Possum!!

But we made it! And got to the car park 25 minutes before the last bus went back to Taupo. Around 8-9 hours it took us, including stops, but I can't remember our exact time. But closer to 9. And I was exhausted! I even fell asleep on the bus back. But we did it! Walk complete!! Back in Taupo we relaxed by showering, changing and heading to Burger Fuel for dinner – I think we deserved it!

Mark before we went downhill into the trees (last leg)

Tongariro Crossing Map (Ketetahi Carpark was our finishing point)

Next day we were to leave Taupo for Rotorua but had some exciting plans first! The night before whilst checking emails, we found a deal for tickets at the Wairakei Terraces, some steamy hot, volcanic terraces not far out of town. There was also some Maori carvings there that we were keen to see. First things first though! On our return to Taupo after our walk, Mark and I had booked something a bit terrifying: a skydive! On arrival to the skydiving company, however, Mark decided to upgrade his jump to 15,000 feet. I wasn't prepared to do this, so stuck with 12,000 feet. This also meant I would be first out of the plane. This both scared me and calmed me.

1) I am terrified of heights. I'm good with views, just not ladders or looking down from any height taller than myself.

2) If I went first, I wouldn't have to watch anyone else having to jump and therefore wouldn't have an option to back out. It was a tandem jump so I wouldn't be completely by myself and someone else would be operating the parachute. My guide, Tim, made me at ease instantly. He was friendly, he asked questions and had even been to Fort William for a bit for kayaking.


Getting harnessed up

Mark and I raring to go!

Preparing for lift off!
Sarah was down on the ground taking pictures for us. Unfortunately, due to the car problems, she couldn't skydive with us this trip, but maybe another time! The plane was tiny and noisy. I'd climbed into my harness and been attached to my partner already. Since I was going out first, being the only person at 12,000 feet, I had to get on last. My heart was thumping as we got on and the door closed from above. It was like a rolled door, easier to open I guess. I had to sit on my partner's lap to get completely attached to him and I was getting more and more scared. I tried to calm myself by looking out the window and asking questions about the view. Soon enough though, it was my turn. I had to slide to the end of the bench and sit down on the floor. I had to help open the door and sit right on the edge of the plane, with my feet hanging out the plane. I felt the wind trying to take my shoes off. I remember two things before the jump. Looking back into the plane, not being able to see Mark, but seeing everyone putting on oxygen masks for the flight higher into the sky and secondly, being told to look in the camera for my exit picture. And then Tim pushed us forward and out, and we were off.

My Exit Photo

For the first 12 seconds or so, we are in freefall. There is nothing helping me breathe, so I have my hand over my mouth and nose as the air rushes past us. We are tumbling in the air and I don't remember seeing anything from this moment in time. Then I'm told to lift up my legs as far as I can. I hurt my leg the day before walking – right around the thigh area, so when the parachute opens up, straining on my thigh, I am in pain. But wow, that view is amazing. We are up so very high and I can see for miles and miles! My tandem partner picks out some views for me and asks if I want to spin in the air and go faster. But this speed was enough for me, just gliding in big circles. It really is a beautiful view. These 3 are not my pictures, but given to me on my exit photo CD.

A view out the plane

A view of Taupo

The landing site


Soon we are to land, and for us, this means landing on our bums. Others might land running but I'd rather not hurt my leg more so I agree with the method and put my legs up in the air once more to land. And down I go with a bump. I try to get up but am told to lean back and look up into the sky. I can see the first jumpers come out the plane at 15,000 feet. I got up soon after – once I had gotten my breath back – and go and find Sarah. We both stand there as the rest of the people in the plane come down – and eventually so does Mark. What an amazing experience! Once in a lifetime for sure!!

That's me up there!!

Me again!

Coming in to land!

Mark coming in to land!

Mark and I after

Mark and I with our plane




On the next instalment: Rotorua, Mt Mangonui and McLaren Falls

Whanganui, New Plymouth and Returning to Jail


I'm currently sitting in my room in Cable Bay watching the palm tree outside my window sway and the waves crashing against the beach. I realise I haven't done my blog in a long time and I think it's because I got bored of it. I had writer's block for a time too, which is strange because here I am writing about my own life. I also wrote way too much and I think people must've got lost half way down. So really, doing a three month at a time blog will be good because I'll have forgotten some of the day-to-day activities and remember only what I want to. There are still a ton of pictures in here though! Happy reading! Kirsty x

Whanganui/Wanganui (pronounced Fonganooee or Wonganooee)



Pukeko!! I recorded it, played it back to myself, and they started replying to the squaks on the audio

Pencil art in Wanganui

Seeing Mt Ruapehu (approx 50 miles away) from the Wanganui river

This fun fella is on the wall as you go into the elevator tunnel

I went to Whanganui after Wellington because I couldn't find a paid job anywhere and thought working for accommodation would be better for a while. Save me some money anyway! I volunteered at the Tamara Lodge backpackers just off the river there for three and a half weeks. There's not a lot happening in that town. Sure it's good to explore for a day or two, but I got bored easily. I only had to work two hours a day. During the week it was minding the reception, working in the garden, folding laundry and maybe tidying the kitchen at the end of the day. At the weekend, I was doing the housekeeping. I never knew what I was doing there, really. Rory, the owner, wasn't very forthcoming about my duties and would only tell me that day what I'd be doing. In Napier, we'd at least worked by a timetable and that was better for me.

Tamara Lodge Backpackers, Whanganui
After two weeks of being there, I'd been up the hill twice – where there is an elevator in the middle of the hill – and up the tower with it's 250+ steps twice. I'd walked out to the beach with it's black sand. I'd made a cake and fed it to everyone in the hostel. I'd done a couple of 1000 piece jigsaws and drunk two bottles of cider by myself. It rained a lot and I explored the town itself on good days. I went to the park and found a PUKEKO. Probably the cutest bird ever. I also watched A LOT of TV that I'd copied onto my hard-drive from friends.

The hill elevator, from the top

The tower where you can get the best view of Whanganui! 
The view from the top of the hill (with the elevator IN THE HILL)

The town's art museum (closed)


I don't know why it took me so long to get in touch but I suppose it was nerves. My great-aunt Lorna's best friend from Singapore, Lyn, lived just outside Whanganui on a little farm. My second cousin (I think?) on my dad's side, Sonia, gave me her details over facebook. I'm not very close with my Dad's family apart from him and my granny. I used to receive birthday and Christmas cheques from Lorna and her husband Ron when I was a child, but didn't see them often. We lived in the highlands of Scotland, and from what I remember, they had a house near Box in very southern England. Miles and miles and miles away. Lyn and I met up on a weekend and she picked me up in her wee battered beetle. We had a little explore of the art galleries in town and had a coffee in the i-site cafe while we waited for her appointment with the garage. After the garage, we headed out to hers along the New Plymouth road. She has a lovely house – a huge bungalow – and a gorgeous garden with fruit trees and it's own tiny lake with ducks. Lyn and I talked about everything. My Dad had met her once long ago when he was about my age. He'd been to visit Lorna in Singapore with my granny (her sister). He said she was a “cracker” and she was. I knew as soon as I met her she was brilliant. She was very colourful, wearing pink and grey and cool thigh high boots. 71 years of age, and more fashionable than me (that's not hard). She was very open and we spoke about family, about me, about my mum, about plans, about her family, about New Zealand, all over roast lamb made in a tagine. After dinner, we played scrabble over wine and it was good to finally have someone to play with!

A picture of Lyn's awesome car!

Lyn's house

Lyn and I playing scrabble in her living room


I was sad when the night was over. She drove me back to the hostel, I must've got in around midnight! I saw her once more, this time with her grandchildren, with whom we fed the ducks in her pond and played trains. We had another lovely dinner and her son joined us for a bit. We had a few more games of scrabble and a bit more wine before I went back to the hostel. Lyn has offered, if I come back, to drive me up the Whanganui river and go to the Bridge of Nowhere. I would really, really love to see her again and will see if I have enough time and money to re-visit her in January.

New Plymouth

After Whanganui, I headed to New Plymouth on the coast for two nights. I had wanted to take a walk up near Mt Taranaki (as featured in the Last Samurai and Mt Fiji) but it was too snowy and I would have needed a guide and some intermediate climbers equipment to go up at all. Instead, we had some nice sunny days! The night I arrived, I made friends in the hostel with Sanja, Max and another German guy, Baldur. We played drinking games and then went out to the pub with the South African guy from reception to play pool and then headed onto a Maori bar for more drinks. The next day we were a little rough, so we sunbathed and played Jenga in the garden in the sunshine and then in the afternoon, Sanja, Baldur and I went to a reserve beach along the 'surfer's highway'. Max unfortunately had to go onto the next place, so it was just us three. It was a gorgeous day but the water was too cold to swim in, so we paddled and our feet went numb! There were some beautiful views from the beach to the islands and also up to Mt Taranaki. In the evening, the three of us went out again for more pool. As it was a Friday there was dancing music in the pub but nobody on the dance floor. Sanja and I tried for a bit, but being the only ones on the dancefloor in a semi-quiet pub meant that people stared at us and it was unnerving. We headed back to the hostel and eventually to bed. 

Sanja, Max and Baldur in New Plymouth



Mt Taranaki from the beach

Moi
The next day I was leaving, but my bus wasn't til 1.30pm so I went for a walk around the Botanics and to the racecourse in the morning. I didn't mean to be at the racecourse but the Botanic walks weren't very well signed and I ended up in the wrong place! It had rained in the morning so I had my thick boots on but it turned out to be a roasting day. Unfortunately the bus ended up being an hour and a half late! Some sort of mechanical problem, we were never told! But once the driver got there, he announced he was going to have a half an hour break! So we were even later on leaving. I was pretty worried, as my connecting bus was in Palmerston North and I was afraid it'd leave without me. The bus coming up from Wellington was also thankfully late, and our bus made up time by having no toilet stop and by speeding. I had to run into a bar in “Palmy” and then my connecting bus met me outside the entrance! We arrived into Napier about an hour and a quarter late and thankfully Sarah was able to pick me up.

Napier - Returning to Jail

That's right – Napier. Sarah had mentioned that she, Nalendra and Ireka were going to an All Blacks game in Napier at the beginning of September back when I had only just got to Whanganui. I jumped at the chance to go too, even though the tickets were almost $70 for the cheap stands. All Blacks are New Zealand's national rugby team for anyone not in the know! Once I had said yes to going to the game with the other three, I had decided to come back just for the weekend. My old boss at the prison, Marion, said she was fine with this. I'd pitch in to cover my accommodation. Then things changed, and with no plan for the future, this stay became a week and then five weeks. Sarah, Mark and I had planned to do the Tongariro Crossing in the second week of October and I said I'd stay until then. Our plans then expanded to include everything Mark had missed out on his trip so far, and since he was leaving mid-October, he wanted to cram it all in and Sarah and I were to go along for the ride.

So I came back to the prison. I worked there as the cleaner, 6 days a week, 3 hours a day for 5 weeks. I told Tony I was back, just in case I could pick up any shifts at the restaurant, but he never needed anyone. I was also dog walker extraordinaire for Marion's dog Finn and Bonnie's Yoda. I took them on a walk in the afternoons most days, up Bluff Hill or along the beach. Got me fitter anyway! I didn't just come back for the game. I missed Napier and the prison and everyone in it. I had been texting a certain male friend for a while by that point, and I guess – as he knows now too – that I also came back for him. And something did happen, but I'm not going to go into it! Let's just say we were more than friends and when I return to the UK, we'll hopefully meet up again. He knows who he is, and some of you may know too!

The weekend of the All Blacks game was a lot of fun. My friend Sian, who I'd met at Mt Cook (remember her?) came to visit me. She also had a ticket for the game, but in a different section. The Wednesday before, the team had arrived in Napier and had done a few appearances for pictures and autographs at the Conch shell, at the theatre and also in Farmers, one of the department stores. I met a few players, I got three of them to sign my special NZ playing cards, though I can't tell you who exactly I met. I can just show you the pictures! Mark was in Auckland for a Mythbuster's (TV prog) event so he missed the action this time around!

Sian arrived on the Saturday afternoon. It was so good to see her, and it was good to catch up. Caila, a friend of my first prison friend Sarah, who I'd met in Wellington, was also living at the prison. Although she didn't come to the game, we all hung out that weekend. Sian had gotten us press-on tattoos for the game and we'd gotten banners at one of the appearances in the last few days. We had even bought $2 ponchos at Pac n Save. It torrential rained most of the night. We were dressed warmly, Sarah, Sian and I had all drunk at least one bottle of cider each (1.25L only!) before the game, waterproofs on... Nalendra and Ireka drove us down so we didn't have to walk too far to the stadium. Sian and I went to collect her ticket while the others went inside to have a look around. The players were meant to be doing another appearance before the game, and although they walked right by Sarah, Ireka and Nalendra, but didn't stop to chat this time.

Our seats weren't that bad. They were on an extra, un-covered stand quite high up and had a good view of the whole pitch. I was so glad I brought my glasses so that I could see (I'm short sighted) but had to wipe them quite a few times because of the rain. Now, I'm being honest here... I don't really know the rules for rugby. Sarah explained a few of the actions to me, which I got, but for some of it I got lost on the scoring. And, I fell asleep. Pouring rain, shouting all around, wet seat, live action rugby... and I fell asleep for about 20 minutes. No idea how! But when I woke up, it was in time for half time. I'd seen the beginning and the Haka, but not much more of that. During the break, I found Sian and we found food and the bathrooms, before we separated again for the second half. I didn't fall asleep this time! There was more action: more injuries, lots more running, less complicated moves and a female streaker! She ran holding her boobs and was taken down by six members of security. The game was all centred on another part of the pitch at that time, so I'm afraid the players missed most of it!
Sarah, Sian and me taking All Blacks selfies pre-game

Our view from our seats

A selfie with Sarah seconds before the streaker came on

Post-game selfie!

It was a good game though, Argentina lost to New Zealand but they fought hard! We were going to go out after the game with Caila, but didn't get back to the prison until quite late, so we all stayed up talking about Asia. Sarah had already visited quite a bit of South-East Asia, so she gave Sian, Caila and I – all of us going to Asia in the next year or so – advice about what to bring and what to watch out for. Sarah should really write this all down and publish it! Tips for travellers that Lonely Planet doesn't always mention! Like how it's best to get medical attention for Malaria in an Asian country as they know more about treating it than the Western world and the hospitals only generally cost $1 a day. Like I said – interesting! Sian left the next day to see the eastern cape of the north island before heading up to Auckland – and away to Asia. We took Sian to Meanee road, the chocolate shop and our fave winery: The Mission, before she left for her trip around the East Cape. She invited me to go with her, but I felt I couldn't leave people in the lurch whilst I went exploring. Shame.


 
Wine Times in The Mission with Sian, Sarah and Caila



Mark came back to the prison and life returned to normal. Hanging out in the tv room, on our laptops, watching the occasional film from the video store. We went to the cinema a few times. On my first day back I went to see Guardians of the Galaxy with Mark. He'd seen it before just after his trip to Wellington with Sarah to see me back in July but was willing to see it again. I wore my heels for the first time since I broke my toe and got blisters. Mark was late because he was helping a visitor find their way in the prison, but we got there on time! I loved the raccoon!

We went to the cinema another few times. I miss cheap cinema. Cable Bay has no cinema and the nearest one is Kaitaia, half an hour's drive away. I don't drive. Monday's in the prison were movie and pizza nights. I had some girl time at the swimming pool, just playing in the water. Jacuzzis are actually far too hot for me after only 5 minutes! We went to the quiz a couple of times in the Irish pub and I managed to answer seven questions correctly in one night! Woo! I suck at quizzes, I just go along for the fun and to see friends. That's why, when I return home, I'll be going back to the quiz on Tuesday's in the Greenmantle in Edinburgh to join Team Danger, if they'll have me back!

I met up with Jill again, my English friend from when I worked in Kathmandu. She was house sitting up the road from the prison and I went round there for dinner to celebrate her new visa status - she was getting to stay! Her partner is from New Zealand so it was smiles all round. We also met up once more to climb Te Mata peak together. Such amazing views from there and well worth it to see the ancient sea shells hundreds of feet above sea level still in the rock and the lovely forest walks.

Looking down Te Mata peak back towards Havelock North, Hastings and Napier



See... shells!!!

The wiggly path down to the redwood forest


It was fun to go back to Napier and see everyone – and also make new friends. For the last two weeks or so in the prison, we had a French girl, Emmeline, come in and do French translations for the audio guide business. We all became friends rather quickly and it was good to have a wee girls group again, if only for a short period of time. Sarah, Caila, Emmeline and I went to a winery for Caila's last day at Napier prison. Sarah and I had seen a menu at the farmer's market in Hastings the previous Sunday (if you're going to go to a market in Hawkes' Bay, go to that one!) and you could get two courses out of three for $25. I hope I'm remembering this correctly. It was supposed to be winter still yet the temperature rose to a balmy 24C and we got seats outside. We all had to borrow Sarah's suncream though! The food was amazing and we all had a lovely, relaxing time. We went for ice cream at Rush Munro's in Hastings after - the World Famous in New Zealand ice cream. I had a sorbet banana split. Awesomely good! I was sad to see Caila leave. She's a lovely person and I really hopes she comes to visit me in Scotland sometime. I will most definitely visit her in Canada one day – when she finally goes home (She's in Oz just now).

We played hide and seek in the dark a few times, although there was a lot of cheating going on like moving around! Not fair! No torch is around so you have to depend on your eyesight in the pitch black. On Caila's last night we played again, and she hid on top of a wall! I was seeker and thought I'd be quieter and went in my socks for a bit, only one of the cell doors I'd opened to look for someone had slowly creaked open by the time I went back and I walked straight into it! With my bad toe. Seriously thought I'd damaged it again, but after a few days it went back to normal, phew!

Caila and Sarah at Rush Munro's

Emmeline and I gorging on our icy treats

Caila's best hide and seek spot. I should also point out that this is above the graveyard... in the dark... spooky!

Before I knew it, time had crept up on us and it was time to leave again! This time I was taking Sarah and Mark with me - Mark's original planned trip after all - although Sarah was going to come back and help Tony out in the pizzeria until it closed at the end of October. We had a potluck dinner – though only the girls ended up cooking as the guys were helping out with a new hole in the floor in the women's wing (a spoilt kid decided to jump up and down several times on a creaky floor and didn't expect that to happen). The meal was delicious though, and we were all very full by the end! We also went to the RSA for one last meal with Marion and her family. We had several photos on the stairs with Caila before she left and I've picked out what I think is the best one to finish off this post. I really loved Napier and one day, maybe I'll go back. Sarah seems intent on staying longer there and with the introduction of warmer, longer showers, who wouldn't? Haha.


From L-R: Mark, Sarah, Nalendra, Ireka (back), Caila (front), Emmeline and me